20% Ambergris Oil??
People often ask why do you say pure Amber in the title and then say “made from 20% pure Ambergris”
- For those that do not know Amber is a solid material that is excreted by the Sperm Whale. This amazing substance must be immersed in a preferred oil by the perfume maker (or ethenol by some) for at least 5-8+ years to derive the full potential/depth of the Amber. So, once this is understood you can see that you can’t have 100% amber oil simply because it would me a solid.
- Amber can be an extremely potent material, especially if fresh, to the extent that you feel like producing your own Amber (ie Vomit) when handling some types. Therefore, balance is needed to make a good perfume. The ideal perfume oil should have the maximum amber notes/strength without making it too funky, complimented by your choice of carrier/base oil. 20% is a good sweet spot usually. Sometimes you can tweet and add more as it ages. I had one customer complain that he purchased ambergris in only ethanol, thinking this is pure Amber. He was shocked that it smelt fecal and discussting. I had to explain to him that this a tincture not a perfume.
- Amber can be acidic, remember digestive enzymes of fish are the strongest in the animal world. Although ambergris is resistant to acid in itself, it may contain elements that can cause skin irritation in concentrated amounts. Despite people for years guessing that Ambergris is vomited, some scientists insist it is actually ejected as faecal matter. For this reason I recommend not to exceed 25% amber content.
- Pure Ambergris costs between $20-$50 per gram depending on grade. If you could make even 60% amber, which for above reasons is not possible, you would be paying $250 per 3mls at least.
Hope that all make sense. PM for may questions. Take care.